DOUBLE DOWNLOAD JEOPARDY

Ok, so after two massive brawls and a few hundred rupees, I moved myself to a wonderful guest house where my room overlooks the Ganga. It's perfect and is one of the original guest houses catering to travellers. I've met a great range of people already and don't even mind that my room doesn't have a sink! Or the crazy noises that emanate from the ghats below.

So before I bang on about Varanasi, which I'll leave for after my sunrise boat trip to check out the burning ghats and see the city from the water, I'll take you back to Jaipur.

My one and only festival post was in a sleep deprived, wine filled and floating state. As you may recall, I had just heard Rumi poetry purify my soul, (or was it that I was just overwhelmed by the atmosphere?), and sat next to Leila Seth. Well, I kept my promise and bought her autobiography the next day, and I tracked her down to dedicate it. I'm absolutely loving the book and had no idea I'd plonked myself next to India's first female Chief Justice. She trained as a lawyer after having her second child, in her 'down-time' when in London with no help whatsoever except for 2 weeks before her exams.

In the Durbar Hall of the Jaipur Literature Festival, I think I experienced the most stimulating and diverse week of my life. It's impossible for me to share with you all the authors and poets and musicians who took part (and don't forget I was in one of three venues, so sadly missed Thomas Keneally!!). So, I'll give you some bullet points to avoid this turning into yet another missive:

* Gulzar, truly one of India's most loved poets and lyricists (as previously mentioned) bears a second reference as Nichole (who ran the music stage on the front lawn and has become a mate) gave me a book of his poetry as a memento.

* I know I've been rabbitting on about his Mum, but Vikram Seth did a wonderful discussion on the front lawn whilst sipping red wine, of which a snap appeared in the local press and outraged many people. Honestly, he was sipping a glass of wine!!

* Alice Albinia is a British author and I can't wait to read her books, she was constantly referred to as a rising star. She was so bright and one of the few women on the stage, plus we shared a charpoy when listening to the Baul and shared nuts and bolts.

*Nadeem Aslam gave a fascinating look at India and its future with the brilliant Shoma Chaudhury hosting (another fab female).

*My new hero, Tarun Tejpal, who edits a brilliant magazine Tehelka, who stormed into the hall and blew everyone's socks off.

* The debate hosted by Madhu Trehan (top notch journo) and Manoj Raghuvanshi arguing "Whether it's possible to be honest in India?". Wow was this heated and fascinating, the stories of corruption, mostly shared by the audience were truly shocking, despite what one might have heard and read. There was even a murder witness in the audience who shared her story, which was chilling. And humbling.

*Chetan Bhagat got all the school kids and the women in a tizz, he has tapped into the younger generation's hearts and minds as no other author I saw there. I kept telling his kids off for making too much noise and his wife actually thanked me at the after party!!

*Patrick French in conversation with Pico Iyer. Need I say more? Heaven. Such different styles and such fascinating men.

* Nandita Das, Prasoon Joshi, Nasreen Munni Kabir and Vikas Swarup making the crowd swoon. This was actually a hellish session as any whiff of Bollywood and the audience went mad. I lost my cool during this session, the one and only time in the whole fest.

* My true hero and new friend William Dalrymple (see right down the bottom with his wife Olive, Vikram Seth and moi), my secret crush Colin Thubron (double my age and so lovely), the divine Pico Iyer and a new and impressive face Charles Nicholl who gave delicious travel readings. It could have gone on all day. I wanted to let it.

* Simon Schama. What a dynamo! He gave one session on Obama and American history and then another on Picasso. What a man, what a brain. Mine hurt.

* THE Tina Brown dishing the dirt on Princess Diana and Vanity Fair. Lascerating tongue. She admitted that Tarun T's mag Tehelka is her fave in the world.

* And soooooo much more. If you can make it to Jaipur next January, you really, seriously should. You can bet I'll be doing my utmost to be there.

I really couldn't believe the quality and quantity of authors, poets and I have hardly touched on the musicians yet, who were all singing for their supper at the Diggi Palace (what a setting) with such intensity and every single event was FREE. Plus everyone was thrown in together, there was no green room. The brilliant Teamwork Productions crew worked like demons to ensure that whether you were royalty, a school child or a guy off the street, you were made to feel welcome.

I must say that Sanjoy, Sheuli and Ila all lead by example and every single person who worked at the festival (too many to name but Avani who helped me out at Durbar Hall and is such a friend now, must be singled out) made it super special. The atmosphere was electric. Inspiring. Challenging and truly fascinating. It was an absolute honour.

I really have to go to bed now. I can't wait to see another sunrise.
Lxxxx

SHE'S ALIVE, SHE'S ALIVE

I went down, down, down with a cold and exhaustation after the festival. I'm sorry for my silence but I gave every ounce of myself and then danced like a maniac at the closing night party, forgot to eat dinner, drank too much champers and got a chill. Typical!

At least it was in style at the City Palace where the theme was black & red. Yes, my fave combination. It was by far the classiest festival closing I've ever been to. And the French/Algerian dj was such fun, as were his various dancers who whirled around the perfect lawn with the turban-ed waiters attending our every need. Gosh it was gorgeous. And we were all so exhausted and elated, so we had a blast. Noone wanted to go home.

I can't wait to get the photos developed. There is still so much to tell you about the festival but I think I'll work backwards as I've got limited time.

I've just arrived at Varanasi. India's holiest city. Many proclaim it to be the oldest city in the world It runs a pigrimage line from and to Kanyakumari, where I spent the last full moon. It's where many people come to die or be re-born, there are burning bodies right on the Ganga. It's a staggering sight and experience, though they do camp it up for the tourists and follow you about mercilessly. It's a magical place.

After sleeping and snuffling the week away in Jaipur, missing my ride on an Enfield through Rajasthan to a Sufi festival and taking some time out at Krishna's wonderful guest house with all the colourful characters (more on them later, it's been like Days of Our Lives, seriously), I decided it was time to move yesterday.

It was hard to leave my new friends, but I had cabin fever. Just a quick word to the lovely lads in the photo. Adi is a brilliant Rajasthani musician and he introduced me to the wonderful Nichole and sorted out my guest house. Then came over for visits and played music for us, just as he's doing here while Rado (divine Slovenian who lives in Holland)is singing a folk song from home.


My god I nearly forgot to tell you about Nichole's and my lunch with the royalty of Jaipur. In short, I had left a bag at the closing night party and when I went back to pick it up, the Marketing Manager invited me and Nichole to come for lunch with the royal family. I dragged my cold ridden body out of bed and we got snazzied up and raced to the palace. We were greeted with flowers and musicians and given champagne. But no royalty appeared, turns out the Marketing Manager is a bit lonely after leaving London so he and his assistant hosted us for a delicious lunch. It was a slight let down, as we realsed we'd been lead up the garden path. But it was a beautiful, jewel laden path with a feast at the end. So we just giggled all the way home.


I tried to race to the railway station but only made it by midday. Everyone had said it was an overnight train leaving in the evening, so I didn't bother packing. Yup, the train was leaving at 3.30pm. I threw far too many things into my poor rucksack, ate lunch in record time (always know I'm better when I've got my appetite back) and made it onto the train having secured a nice sleeper. My first overnight train experience was pretty civilised, though I hardly slept a wink as it was lumpy as hell.

Pity the train terminated in Lucknow (capital of Uttar Pradesh) at 2.45am instead of going on to Varanasi as it was supposed to!! Most fortunately the lady sleeping below me, the gorgeous and wonderful Sushita, helped me and two London based nurses Liz (Brit) and Arik (Pole) get a car to take us on. We didn't fancy the shit fight of another train journey and the trip was entrancing, despite our tired eyes. I love watching India scratch its scrawny butt, yawn and then wake up with a groggy, colourful grin. People only really kick into gear at 10am.

Little did we know what was ahead of us in the car. For a few hours it was dark and easy going, except for the huge piles of stones that seemed to take up half the 'highway' and the massive trucks that kept coming head on. I was most glad not to be in the front and that I'd remembered to charge my iPod. Jeff Buckley continues to keep me company. I'll never tire of Grace.

We decided after a beautiful sunrise (blood red) and so many amazing sights (wild camels sauntering about in packs, monkeys abounding, groups of women wrapping themselves in vibrant colours, kids causing trouble) that we'd wait and have breakfast in Varanasi, as it was only 50km away. Ha! It took us many hours of circumnavigating the city to find our way to Liz and Arik's hotel. The relief. The view of the Ganges (Mother Ganga) that greeted us. It's beyond description. It made me realise why Rado had confided in me two nights ago, when I was trying to decide on one more stop in India before I head back to Bombay, "Dahhling, the Taj Mahal is beautiful but it's a dead monument and Agra is a pit, you can do it later, you haven't really done India until you've been to Varanasi."

For now I just want to let you know that I'm ok. There's so much I need to 'download' as my lovely new friend Nichole says. Unfortunately the hotel she recommended was full and I ended up being taken for a ride by a little boy (the touts here are uber professional) and ended up in some crappy overpriced place.

I've just had a shower, wandered along the Ganga, visited the fascinating Kedarnad temple (my forehead is covered in tika by Gita Tiwari) and found the perfect place. How am I going to get myself out of the hovel where I've just showered and strewn my clothes?!?!?

Wish me luck. More soon.
Lxxxxx

WARNING: BLISS OVERLOAD

I've been trying to work out how to explain in words what's going on all around me.

You may have noticed that I'm having a rather overwhelming time in India. That I'm brimming over with platitudes and enthusiasm. Sorry about that but I can't help it. Tough.

Only continue reading if you're ready for more.

It's hard to portray the depth of feeling here at this festival. At this time. It feels rather like history is being made, but I may be going overboard.

It's only been two days but I feel like I've been taken to places that I only dreamt about. And there are three more days to be savoured. That magic number 3. It seems to figure constantly in my life. But I digress.

The Jaipur Literary Festival has become a home for the most incredible array of people. It's the most diverse mixture of intelligensia and vagabonds I've ever encountered. As I write this, an Israeli band is performing the most beautiful music on the front lawn of the Diggi Palace. A palace filled with love and peace is the mission.

A Pakistani musician called Junoon just jammed with a Rajasthani drummer and the crowd went wild. I was racing about trying to sort out delegate passes for some artists and decided it was time to sit down after an intense two days of running the main hall here. The Durbar Hall is my most welcome ball and chain.

I'm not sure how I was moved from blogger to hosting the main venue for the festival but I'm humbled and privileged by the task. It's intense to say the least. The place is heaving with the most incredible intellectuals and I'm introducing authors. I'm introducing Oscar nominees for god's sake!!!!

Gulzar is India's most famous and beloved poet (that's him in white). Yesterday I had to tell his audience that we were out of time and that we had to wrap up. Five, or was it 10 times. People were fighting to get inside the venue I'm running, with the incredible support of the diminutive Avani. We are such a team.


He has just received an Oscar nomination for the song that he wrote the words for Slumdog Millionaire. My favourite film of 2008. The film that swept the BIFAs and now the Golden Globes and now has 10 Oscar nominations. It's screening here tomorrow night. Tomorrow is going to be nuts.

Amitabh Bachchan is coming. If you can imagine the biggest star of the western celebrity infirmament, then times it by 100. Seriously. That's who's turning up tomorrow at our festival. He is a god here. He is India's biggest star and he's a god. He can cross every age and class barrier here in terms of adulation. That is quite a feat.

I am sitting with 3 people now who are working at the festival. We've just been debating how the adoration of Amitabh differs from ANY western celebrity. I don't think I can eloquently relay what was just shared with me, but believe me. Tomorrow we're going to see crowds and hysteria that are terrifying. [By the way, that's Avani on the left and Krytika on the right.]

At Gulzar's poetry reading, I saw a press photographer who was talking on his mobile, that I told to shut the fuck up (very nicely mind you) almost come to blows with a woman who was trying to help me shut him up. We had to lock the doors as people were rushing the doors and getting into fights.

This is the same Gulzar, who just wandered into the office I'm writing this from and used our loo. I apologised to him as he came out, for cutting his session off and said that even though I don't speak Hindi, I could feel the love from him and his audience and that I loved every minute. Can you believe he said to me, "I saw you and I could see that you were understanding every word"!?!? What a class act.

One more gushing story and I'll leave the rest for a post mortem as I'm working my way through a bottle of wine and haven't eaten and it's almost 11pm but I just had to share something with you.

My incredible friend and ex-boss, Martha Fiennes, introduced me to William Dalrymple and therefore it's because of her and various wonderful connections, (Constance is cousins with his wife Olive and they're friends of my cousins Charlie Burrell and his wife Issy who is Martha's great friend and a wonderful travel writer...), that I'm here.

Anyway, Martha also introduced me via email to Aradhana Seth who is Vikram's sister and a great friend of Willy's. They made documentaries for the BBC together and although Martha and her never met, she sent me her email. So Aradhana and I have been emailing since I left London, sporadically.

Tonight when Junoon went on stage, I tried to go and join my Bengali friends at their table but all the seats were taken. I asked about 5 or 6 people if the chairs next to them were free and they all said no until I asked a wizened, gorgeous old woman. She motitoned for me to take the chair next to her. I tried to pick it up, thinking I'd take it back to the Bengali table where my new friends Duniya, Mimlu and Paban were sitting with their friends, but the chair was stuck under hers. So I sat. As the music was divine and she had such a warm face.

Someone brought her a red wine. I was jealous. She leant across and told me that the man who had brought it was India's top heart doctor. I smiled and we swayed to the music. She apologised for having wine when I didn't. I was a little jealous, but what can you do?

I saw a waiter a few moments later and tried to catch him. I had to race half way across the lawn. The demand for seats was so intense by now, when I came back, she'd used her umbrella to save it for me. I sat back down and within a few minutes, her daugher arrived to check on her. As we were sitting so close together, due to the conjoined chairs, her daughter introduced herself. Aradhana Seth.

I had sat down next to Leila Seth. When Aradhana heard my name, she asked if I was the same Laura she'd been emailing with. Yes. That's me.

Leila pushed her son off the bestsellers list with her one and only book. Her autobiography. I promised to buy it tomorrow. I can't wait to read it.

On the live feed, Willy and Olive Dalrymple appeared. They were up the front of the concert clapping and singing. I pointed to them and said, "They are the reason I'm here. Do you know them?" Turns out that Willy D calls Aradhana his Mother Superior and has known the Seth's for 15 years. Here's me, having known them for less than a week, introducing them to Leila Seth.

What a world. What a world. I can't go on anymore. It's now 11.11pm and I have drunk half a bottle of wine (at least) and I should have some dinner. Forgive me. I will write again soon. But it might be after the festival finishes.

This place, this country, the people. It's all love. It's crazy, fucked up, heavenly, corrupt and insane. But it's pure. In a way that's hard to portray.

All I know is that I'm in heaven. And I'm so blessed to be able to share it with you. Now.
But now, I must eat.
More soon.
Lxxxxx

P.S. I'm too tired to edit this. Forgive any errors and over-the-topness.

FEST TIME AMIDST THE PINK CITY

I awoke on Sat to the arrival from Paris of Duniya, daughter of the most fascinating Mimlu. We had a lovely breakfast where she filled me in on her family history. Mimlu is just finishing a book about her life and I can't wait to read it. Born to Tahitian/Indian/French parents, Mimlu has had a few husbands and many children and they all get along. Most Christmases are spent in either Paris or Calcutta all together. Her husband Paban is the most exquisite Bengali musician and they are all performing at the festival.

Duniya works in Paris for the film production company that produced La Vie En Rose (Edit Piaf's biopic) and they're soon to release the director's next film which stars Renee Zelwegger and Forest Whittaker. We had lots to talk about, as you can imagine, but she was exhausted from her flight. So, William and I accompanied Adam to his football game.

On arrival, we watched the end of another game where the parents were shouting and getting in the way. After giggling at them, Adam and his team took the pitch. William was instantly transformed, forgetting his half eaten blackberry (thanks to Albinia's jealousy, she had pecked out the A, E, W and S to his immense, but good natured frustration) he paced the side of the pitch shouting encouragement and instructions. I joined is as Adam chased down the ball fearlessly. It was such fun. And his team, the Royal Falcons beat the Red Devils 3-0.

Back at the farm, Paban and Mimlu had arrived and would you believe that when I told them about Emma's film in Calcutta, they remembered meeting both her and Cam. It turns out that Paban sings a song for the film and had been on set the one day that Cam visited over Christmas to lip sync his song. What a crazy, small, wonderful world it is.

Olive and her friend Claire arrived back from Jaipur full of stories about their week there. It was wonderful to finally meet Olive and everyone in the house was overjoyed to have her back. We ate a delicious meal, in between practice sessions where Paban played various instruments, as did Mimlu while Duniya sang with Paban. We all jangled bells and sang a bit and it was a gorgeous eve.

I was staying out in the Arabian tent as the house was full and woke up to the sound of thunder and lightening, which was rather surprising. A misty morning greeted me as I made plans to head to Jaipur, as William insisted I get involved. The ever patient Sanjoy put me in touch with his spitfire number 2, Sheuli and along with the lovely Shupta, the 3 of us ladies zoomed along the packed highways into Rajasthan.

Poor Sheuli's phone didn't stop, as she's the main point of contact for all talent and there are endless issues with visas and travel arrangements, but she handled them all with incredible efficiency and a warm manner. I tried not to gasp and jump as we avoided vehicles of every shape and size, silly me sitting in the front.

Sanjoy has asked me to blog for the festival site, which is such a welcome request. It means I can attend the readings and lectures and events and will be just like the old days when I used to work as a journalist covering film festivals. The only drawback is having to write everything up at the end of very long days, but it's all for a wonderful cause. I am absolutely delighted to be involved and Sheuli has sorted a laptop for me. So, I might not get a chance to blog on my site this week. Apparently my blogs/diaries will be on the festival site.

Driving into Jaipur last night was incredible. The city is divided into three sections, we drove through Old Jaipur first which was choking with people and animals and general mayhem. We passed the floating palace and some beautiful forts and buildings. Then we entered the gobsmacking Pink City. Everything is a dusky, rosey pink and the gates that signal your entry and exit are astounding. Then we zoomed into New Jaipur and I was dropped off at my guest house where the lovely Laxman greeted me warmly and I zonked out almost immediately.

This majestic capital city of Rajasthan has already captivated me. I had a few errands to do on the way to Diggi Palace (where the festival is being held) so I decided to walk. Walk?!?! It was hard to get rid of the rickshaws and people following me but I was resolute to find my own way. Finally I reached the palace, but it was the wrong one - City Palace instead. So I relented and jumped in a rick as I couldn't resist Kaif's charms. Indian really know how to joke with you and your frustrations just melt as they good naturedly try to charge you double the going rate!! Gosh it was fun battling the streets and getting to know the city a bit. I arrived to find Sheuli and Shupta melting in the hot sun and sitting on the front lawn where Vikram Seth will be in a few short days.

The Dalrymple clan arrive tomorrow and the madness will begin. If you're reading this and you happen to be in India, come to the festival. It's going to be so much fun.
Better scoot. More photos and things soon.
Lxxxx

DELIGHTS OF DELHI

On arrival at Indira Ghandi airport, I was clutching a list of directions from my soon-to-be host. the wonderful writer William Dalrymple. After negotiating a driver who spoke some English, which took some doing, I ended up with 18 year old Mihesh. I was feeling rather pleased with myself as we zoomed along, thinking smugly that we might just get there without having to call fifteen times for help.

Oh no, no, no. Turns out despite my instructions, we had got on the wrong road and had almost zoomed to the next town past Mehrauli. Needless to say, a few phonecalls found us on the right road and then the pleasure of yet another argument with someone you thought was straight up trying to rip you off (they start young here!!) and I was finally at my destination.

William and Olive, (though I'm yet to meet the lady of the house as she's running an art and craft festival in Jaipur), have the most wonderful home which is set on a sizeable acreage and has a wide variety of animals. Albinia is the resident cocktatoo, [posing here with Sam] reminding me of home and most talented, she can say a very posh "Hello I'm Albinia" and loves spreading out her wings when sprayed with a fine mist of water. Gilbert and George are a crazy pair of goats. George has recently impregnated his mother to everyone's slight alarm.

Then there are the new puppies Chocolate and Fudge, named by the two Dalrymple boys who I probably should have mentioned before the pets!!! Sam and Adam are truly divine. They're bright, well spoken, enthusiastic, sassy and great company. We've been watching David Attenborough fossil programs and discussing all manner of things. Sam's rock collection is mighty impressive (aka 'his etchings'!!).

So apart from the dogs and peacocks and chickens (rooster named Stanley of course) and various other creatures, the house is teeming with incredible artifacts from various travels and the books. My god, the books. I've hardly had my nose out of one since I arrived. William has given me all sorts of advice about onward travels and has recommended some amazing places off the beaten track.

He's working like crazy on his literature festival, which starts on Wed (21st Feb) and has grown from 6 authors 4 years ago (I think) to 180 artists this year including musicians and filmmakers. Wow! Just in case you fancy a peek, check out the Jaipur Literature Festival site, for some reason I can't post the link but it comes up first in Google.

Amongst many missions and themes, the festival is promoting a dialogue with Pakistan, which is so healthy as there are a lot people here who simply want to boycott the whole country. Their relationship sits on a knife edge and William is determined to do his part at this tricky time. A lot of the Pakistani artists are coming on their own dime to show their commitment. I'm so excited that Vikram Seth will be there, and Shekhar Kapur and Thomas Keneally just confirmed. Yippee! And sooooo many more talented people. I can't wait.

So, I spent my first afternoon exploring the Mehrauli archaeological park, which is close by and filled with fascinating ruins and the famous Q'utb Minar, which I couldn't get into as I arrived in between tour times, so we drove through the bazaar which was full of life. I ended up in a mosque listening to the call to prayer that so dominates life in the east.

I've now had two full days of touring Delhi, leaving each time with a list of William's recommendations and being driven around by his fave taxi driver Kapoor, who is wonderful and most importantly knows his way back to the farm. It's hard to convey the breadth and depth of this city if you haven't been here. The architecture is astounding, the museums are brimming over, the streets are ancient, the bazaars are electric and the general mayhem is completely addictive.

If I went through everything I've seen, I'd never finish this post and it's getting late. So, a taste of my favourites has to include the astounding spectacle of driving past the government buildings, the architecture is glorious, simply stunning - the Brits got that right! The Indira Ghandi memorial was very moving and I'm so glad I insisted on going to the Triveni tea terrace for lunch. I ended up sitting with a charming guy called Piyush who edits the Hindi journal for the top notch, fine art Lalit Kala Academy. It turns out he was asked to present at William's festival but couldn't, as he's just started his prestigious job but he knows half of the people presenting and marked up my schedule for me, plus he insisted on buying me lunch! So generous and such a welcome coincidence in a lovely setting by the sculpture garden. Thank you Piyush for the recommendation to visit the arts and crafts museum. The textiles blew my mind.

I have to mention Humayun's tomb as it was spectacular but the white breasted kingfisher I saw at the Lodi Gardens at sunset (plus the sounds of all the birds there) with it's bright blue feathers had to be the highlight of the day. Oh no, that's only my first day. Sorry.

Today was spent putting up posters and getting photos sorted first at Khan Market. Then I went to the Red Fort, which was much better than I expected as the Brits obliterated in in the siege, so my expectations were low. However William gave me a brilliant book that took me on a walk and described how it used to look, providing me current references that helped my imagination to run free. I put in my headphones and listened to Lamb and just wandered, ignoring everyone who looked my way. Bliss. Funny how quickly you learn to be a Madam here. Or perhaps I've always been one?!? Don't answer that.

The Jamal Masjid mosque was awe inspiring but very busy, plus it was well into mid arvo and I was starving. So I drank it in and then went on and found the famous Kamil's where I had a massive and delicious lunch. I then wandered for hours around the Chandi Chowk bazaar and can see why its sights and smells inspire people so. I finally decided it was time to leave and got into huge negotiations with a bicycle rickshaw and about 10 passersby. When he quoted me 50 rupees and I replied, "So that means I should be paying 25" they all laughed heartily. Thank you to the young boys who shouted, "Don't pay more than 15 or 20".

However after the driver braved crazy traffic and talked to a concerned Kapoor who was wondering where I was, plus seeing the holes in his clothes and how skinny the poor guy was I gave him 25 for the trip. That's about 30 pence by the way.

So here I am back at Chez Dalrymple sitting in front of a roaring fire and feeling absolutely shattered. It's such a happy sort of tired, though I feel slightly sick at what I spent on the most Kashmiri shawl I've ever seen and my belly is still full from my afternoon meal at Kamil's. I must admit that overall I feel happier than I have in a long, long time. Travelling nourishes the soul like nothing else for me. I'm the luckiest person alive, that is for shizzle!

So, the house gets filled with musicians and their families tomorrow and I am sleeping in the tent. Delhi is quite cold, unlike Bombay's winter you really go need to rug up here, so I hope I don't freeze out there with the goats and chickens. I was only supposed to stay one night but somehow time is marching on and I'm being made to feel so welcome and at home. There's a fun party brewing for tomorrow eve and I'm excited to head to the Taj Mahal (William says it's one of the few places in the world that lives up the hype) and then onwards to Jaipur for the start of the festival on Wed.

I have just over 3 weeks to go and promise to keep you posted as much as possible.

Promise!

Lxxx

DARK SIDE OF PARADISE

I kind of glossed over the new year madness of Varkala, but since finding out that 12 women were attacked that night, I think I need to expand a bit. Also, a foreign girl was badly attacked just before I left, a guy grabbed her walking along the cliff alone and late at night. He bit a chunk of her cheek off and tried to rape her, luckily she escaped, but the police told her it was not worth registering a complaint!!!! Fuck that. For a joke.

It's easy to forget that you're in India, especially for foreigners who just fly straight into the warm arms of Varkala, which is tourist heaven. New Years Eve was disgusting, well isn't it in most countries, but there were SO many drunk Indian men at least 2 or 3 deep lined up on the cliff when Kate and I were bumbling about. As the night wore on they got more and more brazen and were trying to shake your hand, grab you, just get their hands on you. Nasty.

We did have fun on the beach watching the fireworks, which were amazing but pretty dangerous at times. They were going in every direction you can imagine. I just wish I'd been able to find Cat's house again as she had a rocking house party, but I kept getting lost and Kate lost her rag and insisted we head back to The Grove.

Cat is an English girl who gives the incredible Bengali massages. She has lived 3 seasons in Varkala and has a magical touch. I told anyone who'd listen about her. She missed my birthday and I missed NYE at hers, but she managed to join us at The Grove for my last night in town. Mote and the others cooked up yet another INCREDIBLE meal for Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath).

We had the most gorgeous evening and after all the talk of attacks, we walked her home. I did my typical power walking up the hill and suddenly Cat says "What are we doing, this is India, why are we walking so fast?!". I know it's good for me to be constantly told to slow down, but it's just in my nature sometimes to race along. Shanti, shanti.

How can I sum up my final few days in Coconut Grove - blissful swims, sunshine, chats, drinks, meals, walks, shopping, music and general gorgeousness.

It was hard to leave, but Tomer decided to join me for the full moon weekend at the southernmost tip of India. We caught a train to Kanyakumari after a lazy day of packing and swimming and goodbyes.

Kanyakumari is an incredible place. It's where the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian and Arabian oceans. In April you can see the sun set and rise in the same sky! It was badly affected by the tsunami but has bounced back, though it's not a beautiful town I really enjoyed a short visit.

It was teeming with people for full moon and we arrived just as the sun was setting. The hotel gave us 3 choices of rooms, but when we went to the corner room on the top floor and saw the view, there was no competition. The sun was setting right out of one set of windows and two small rock islands housing the Vivekananda Memorial and a 40ft statue of the Tamil saint Thiruvalluvar greeted us. It was an awesome sight.

The atmosphere on the street was so, so different - real India again. The gangs of Ayappa cult members in their black pilgrim outfits were slightly menacing but we found some great food and just drank in the atmosphere. Sunrise on the day of the full moon was my favourite. It was breathtaking. The ferry ride around the islands was fun but it was so hot we didn't last long. I found some great little stores though and bought many crazy little trinkets. Heaven.

To get my flight from Cochin we had to get the very, very early train. I made it to the airport with good time and it was mega bijoux with 2 gates and comfy chairs. I felt pretty dodgy after eating idli on the train and generally over indulging, but now that I'm back in Bombay I feel a million bucks.

Sriraj, Cam and Emma's driver, was there to greet me and the three of us had a great meal at the house before crashing early.

Ems and I have just had a great day zooming about the city. I treated myself to a body scrub to get all the sunscreen and sand off and am now packing for Delhi. I leave first thing tomorrow and can't wait to explore the north. Just under a month to go!!!

I've had my Kerala photos developed (haven't developed photos in an age exciting!!) so I'm going to try and upload them now.

Emma has just walked in and has bought herself a crazy little red beanie. She and Cam are so excited to be going skiing in France in Feb. She has just presented me with a bottle of Moet & Chandon champers from my gorgeous little bro for Xmas/Bday etc. Thank you Hame. I also came back to a package from Mum and Mellie.

I'm being spoilt rotten. And I LOVE it!
More soon.
Lxxx

VENTURING OUT OF THE GROVE

After a few lazy days of swimming, yoga, reading, writing, swimming etc. we decided a day trip to visit the Golden Temple would be a good idea.

It took a whole day not to rent motorbikes, so we gave in and stayed in for yet another meal cooked by the incredibly talented Mote. He and his American wife Katherine are a lovely pair. The food he prepares is so gentle in flavours and absolutely delicious.

Ben and I have had some great walks and adventures. When he laughs he looks like a 5 year old and it's nice to have some Aussie humour amongst the crew. The guys are great fun, but they do break into long discussions in Hebrew. I have taken to wandering off into the hammock with great regularity and just reading and swinging and listening to music.

So after many phone calls by the ever-patient Rene, a guy showed up with the bikes. Matan has hardly ventured further from the roof than the beach, but he and Yanai decided to join Ben, Tomer, Ran and I on our mission. He positioned his significant size on the tiny scooter and Yanai jumped on behind. Tomer had found his legs and was confident to bring Ran on the back of the other scooter, while I held tight to Ben on a bigger bike and we all took off grinning and whooping.

We made it about 500 metres down the road when Matan and Yanai's bike just conked out. So we had to call the guy and get him to come and fix it. While the others went into town to get extra petrol, we sat in a cafe drinking chai and playing shithead.

After yet more waiting, we ended up just grabbing a quick thali in Varkala with Rene and Yan while the boys waited to get another bike. The roar of a loud engine and two very happy faces greeted us when we went outside. Matan had negotiated an Enfield for the day. Rene went back with Yan while we all really took off on our mission (it's probably around 2pm by now). It was such fun hooning along the bumpy roads, as we left Varkala behind we zoomed through little towns that were so quiet and lovely, probably what Varkala used to be before the tourists came. Young kids and old alike wave like mad at us as we pootled along.



After asking various people for directions, Ben and I stopped to take a quick look at the ocean and a few photos. We waved the others on and soon jumped back on the bike to catch up with them. As we neared the next village a gang of young boys were gesticulating wildly at us, we thought they were waving but as we rounded the bend we found Matan slumped on the side of the road and Yanai hopping about him, while ladies and kids stood by trying to help.

The bumper had hit the speed hump and sent them both flying off the Enfield. If Matan hadn't hurt himself, I would have laughed out loud as it was just such a comical scene. It was like walking onto a film set with everyone (mostly women and kids until the word got out) gathered around to point, giggle and help a bit.

Matan was in a bit of shock and it took most of the village to haul him around the corner into the shade. I sat down with him and poured water over his head and calmed him down, it turned out that they were both incredibly lucky. Yanai bounced off without a scratch, Matan hurt his shoulder a bit and scraped his knee and luckily the bike wasn't too badly damaged. Not ideal though.

After much pouring ("I was like a little flower that you were watering" he said later) and prodding from the women, (we were surrounded by a semi circle of about 50 women and children by now), we rang Rene and the boys found a rickshaw. With more waving, they went off to the hospital and he is absolutely fine. Ran and Yanai insisted on both going with him, so Ben, Tomer and I went on. We ended up at a dead end by the ocean, sitting on a pontoon of cement jumping jacks looking at the most beautiful endless beach you can imagine.






We decided to just hang out on the beach a bit further down. But in the very same village, Ben's bike decided to die. He had mentioned that the fuel gauge had gone right down, so I did suggest it could just need fuel, but he insisted he could hear it in there and that it was something else. So, we called Rene again and the motorbike guy came. Guess what, he filled it with fuel and it magically worked. However, it took at least another hour for all that to happen.

So, with some of my new lady friends and their children, I went down the beach where I spent the happiest hour of this trip. All the kids and I played games with the ocean, they did Katthakali dancing for me and taught me some Malayaalam. We laughed and I fell for a gorgeous little girl called Angel (of course). She had the most amazing smile and I gave her my earrings which she loved. I can't wait to develop all the photos.

We finally collapsed on a beach in time for a quick swim and sunset. It was a completely chaotic day, but we had such fun. On arrival back at The Grove we found Matan had decided it was his favourite day of all since he'd been in India (I think he got about half an hour on the bike by the way) and saying that he didn't want to buy a rickshaw anymore, but an Enfield.

It's all a bit like being in a very strange Woody Allen film crossed with Fellini.

So, I better get back to the ranch as Tomer and I are going to take the bike out and about and maybe find the Golden Temple after all. I did yoga this morning and did my first head stand in about 5 years!!

Sending you much love.
Lxxxx

HOW'S THE SERENITY?

It's been hard to tear myself away from the Grove gang. We're a blissful little community amongst the palms. You go to sleep with the waves and wake up to the mosque before falling back asleep to the waves again.

Heaven.

My birthday was lovely. We cooked up a storm and then built a bonfire. It was super chilled and mighty fine. New Years was a zoo, all the local men were on the prowl and it wasn't pretty. But watching the crazy cowboy fireworks from the beach was great fun.

The day was gorgeous, spent by the sandy shores of the north cliff beaches. Watching the fishermen at work, launching boats and working in ways that haven't changed for centuries. Sunset at my home away from home Little Tibet with a mixed fruit juice and noodles.

An elephant appeared overnight by our traveller's lodge, a bit unnerving in the dark but so magnificent. Dolphins were sighted yesterday and we're planning to visit an island by boat tomorrow.

The Israeli guys have done a big shop and are cooking a feast tonight. An Aussie friend from London, Ben Scoff, has shown up sick as a dog. He spent new year's eve on his bathroom floor but is bouncing back nicely. We've been beach hopping and swimming all day and just took a back route into town and found ourselves at the door of a nice house.

The ladies and kids welcomed us inside and made me tea. Ben ended up playing ball with the kids while I was smiled at and warmly stroked by the women. When they heard I was not married to Ben, one of them called her husband to come running. He did, 2 kms and arrived huffing and puffing. Ben and I couldn't help but laugh and enjoy the warmth. They wanted nothing from us, were just most curious.

I have fallen for the most divine little puppy and we had a love-in on the hammock today for 45mins of pure snuggles. Very good for the soul. In fact, I'd recommend the Coconut Grove tonic to any traveller, as it's basic (though they're planning a big renovation and the price will be triple next year!!) as you can find your own meditative space amidst the business all around. The pace of life is easy and pure. I truly love it here and am in no hurry to move. I keep meeting incredible people and feel welcomed. It is touristy, but there is an abundance of good will and mellow vibes.

The ocean is soothing every ounce of me. Must go watch the sunset now.
More soon. Promise.
Lxxxx