Ok, so after two massive brawls and a few hundred rupees, I moved myself to a wonderful guest house where my room overlooks the Ganga. It's perfect and is one of the original guest houses catering to travellers. I've met a great range of people already and don't even mind that my room doesn't have a sink! Or the crazy noises that emanate from the ghats below.
So before I bang on about Varanasi, which I'll leave for after my sunrise boat trip to check out the burning ghats and see the city from the water, I'll take you back to Jaipur.
My one and only festival post was in a sleep deprived, wine filled and floating state. As you may recall, I had just heard Rumi poetry purify my soul, (or was it that I was just overwhelmed by the atmosphere?), and sat next to Leila Seth. Well, I kept my promise and bought her autobiography the next day, and I tracked her down to dedicate it. I'm absolutely loving the book and had no idea I'd plonked myself next to India's first female Chief Justice. She trained as a lawyer after having her second child, in her 'down-time' when in London with no help whatsoever except for 2 weeks before her exams.
In the Durbar Hall of the Jaipur Literature Festival, I think I experienced the most stimulating and diverse week of my life. It's impossible for me to share with you all the authors and poets and musicians who took part (and don't forget I was in one of three venues, so sadly missed Thomas Keneally!!). So, I'll give you some bullet points to avoid this turning into yet another missive:
* Gulzar, truly one of India's most loved poets and lyricists (as previously mentioned) bears a second reference as Nichole (who ran the music stage on the front lawn and has become a mate) gave me a book of his poetry as a memento.
* I know I've been rabbitting on about his Mum, but Vikram Seth did a wonderful discussion on the front lawn whilst sipping red wine, of which a snap appeared in the local press and outraged many people. Honestly, he was sipping a glass of wine!!
* Alice Albinia is a British author and I can't wait to read her books, she was constantly referred to as a rising star. She was so bright and one of the few women on the stage, plus we shared a charpoy when listening to the Baul and shared nuts and bolts.
*Nadeem Aslam gave a fascinating look at India and its future with the brilliant Shoma Chaudhury hosting (another fab female).
*My new hero, Tarun Tejpal, who edits a brilliant magazine Tehelka, who stormed into the hall and blew everyone's socks off.
* The debate hosted by Madhu Trehan (top notch journo) and Manoj Raghuvanshi arguing "Whether it's possible to be honest in India?". Wow was this heated and fascinating, the stories of corruption, mostly shared by the audience were truly shocking, despite what one might have heard and read. There was even a murder witness in the audience who shared her story, which was chilling. And humbling.
*Chetan Bhagat got all the school kids and the women in a tizz, he has tapped into the younger generation's hearts and minds as no other author I saw there. I kept telling his kids off for making too much noise and his wife actually thanked me at the after party!!
*Patrick French in conversation with Pico Iyer. Need I say more? Heaven. Such different styles and such fascinating men.
* Nandita Das, Prasoon Joshi, Nasreen Munni Kabir and Vikas Swarup making the crowd swoon. This was actually a hellish session as any whiff of Bollywood and the audience went mad. I lost my cool during this session, the one and only time in the whole fest.
* My true hero and new friend William Dalrymple (see right down the bottom with his wife Olive, Vikram Seth and moi), my secret crush Colin Thubron (double my age and so lovely), the divine Pico Iyer and a new and impressive face Charles Nicholl who gave delicious travel readings. It could have gone on all day. I wanted to let it.
* Simon Schama. What a dynamo! He gave one session on Obama and American history and then another on Picasso. What a man, what a brain. Mine hurt.
* THE Tina Brown dishing the dirt on Princess Diana and Vanity Fair. Lascerating tongue. She admitted that Tarun T's mag Tehelka is her fave in the world.
* And soooooo much more. If you can make it to Jaipur next January, you really, seriously should. You can bet I'll be doing my utmost to be there.
I really couldn't believe the quality and quantity of authors, poets and I have hardly touched on the musicians yet, who were all singing for their supper at the Diggi Palace (what a setting) with such intensity and every single event was FREE. Plus everyone was thrown in together, there was no green room. The brilliant Teamwork Productions crew worked like demons to ensure that whether you were royalty, a school child or a guy off the street, you were made to feel welcome.
I must say that Sanjoy, Sheuli and Ila all lead by example and every single person who worked at the festival (too many to name but Avani who helped me out at Durbar Hall and is such a friend now, must be singled out) made it super special. The atmosphere was electric. Inspiring. Challenging and truly fascinating. It was an absolute honour.
I really have to go to bed now. I can't wait to see another sunrise.
Lxxxx
So before I bang on about Varanasi, which I'll leave for after my sunrise boat trip to check out the burning ghats and see the city from the water, I'll take you back to Jaipur.
My one and only festival post was in a sleep deprived, wine filled and floating state. As you may recall, I had just heard Rumi poetry purify my soul, (or was it that I was just overwhelmed by the atmosphere?), and sat next to Leila Seth. Well, I kept my promise and bought her autobiography the next day, and I tracked her down to dedicate it. I'm absolutely loving the book and had no idea I'd plonked myself next to India's first female Chief Justice. She trained as a lawyer after having her second child, in her 'down-time' when in London with no help whatsoever except for 2 weeks before her exams.
In the Durbar Hall of the Jaipur Literature Festival, I think I experienced the most stimulating and diverse week of my life. It's impossible for me to share with you all the authors and poets and musicians who took part (and don't forget I was in one of three venues, so sadly missed Thomas Keneally!!). So, I'll give you some bullet points to avoid this turning into yet another missive:* Gulzar, truly one of India's most loved poets and lyricists (as previously mentioned) bears a second reference as Nichole (who ran the music stage on the front lawn and has become a mate) gave me a book of his poetry as a memento.
* I know I've been rabbitting on about his Mum, but Vikram Seth did a wonderful discussion on the front lawn whilst sipping red wine, of which a snap appeared in the local press and outraged many people. Honestly, he was sipping a glass of wine!!
* Alice Albinia is a British author and I can't wait to read her books, she was constantly referred to as a rising star. She was so bright and one of the few women on the stage, plus we shared a charpoy when listening to the Baul and shared nuts and bolts.
*Nadeem Aslam gave a fascinating look at India and its future with the brilliant Shoma Chaudhury hosting (another fab female).
*My new hero, Tarun Tejpal, who edits a brilliant magazine Tehelka, who stormed into the hall and blew everyone's socks off.
* The debate hosted by Madhu Trehan (top notch journo) and Manoj Raghuvanshi arguing "Whether it's possible to be honest in India?". Wow was this heated and fascinating, the stories of corruption, mostly shared by the audience were truly shocking, despite what one might have heard and read. There was even a murder witness in the audience who shared her story, which was chilling. And humbling.
*Chetan Bhagat got all the school kids and the women in a tizz, he has tapped into the younger generation's hearts and minds as no other author I saw there. I kept telling his kids off for making too much noise and his wife actually thanked me at the after party!!
*Patrick French in conversation with Pico Iyer. Need I say more? Heaven. Such different styles and such fascinating men.
* Nandita Das, Prasoon Joshi, Nasreen Munni Kabir and Vikas Swarup making the crowd swoon. This was actually a hellish session as any whiff of Bollywood and the audience went mad. I lost my cool during this session, the one and only time in the whole fest.
* My true hero and new friend William Dalrymple (see right down the bottom with his wife Olive, Vikram Seth and moi), my secret crush Colin Thubron (double my age and so lovely), the divine Pico Iyer and a new and impressive face Charles Nicholl who gave delicious travel readings. It could have gone on all day. I wanted to let it.
* Simon Schama. What a dynamo! He gave one session on Obama and American history and then another on Picasso. What a man, what a brain. Mine hurt.
* THE Tina Brown dishing the dirt on Princess Diana and Vanity Fair. Lascerating tongue. She admitted that Tarun T's mag Tehelka is her fave in the world.
* And soooooo much more. If you can make it to Jaipur next January, you really, seriously should. You can bet I'll be doing my utmost to be there.
I really couldn't believe the quality and quantity of authors, poets and I have hardly touched on the musicians yet, who were all singing for their supper at the Diggi Palace (what a setting) with such intensity and every single event was FREE. Plus everyone was thrown in together, there was no green room. The brilliant Teamwork Productions crew worked like demons to ensure that whether you were royalty, a school child or a guy off the street, you were made to feel welcome.
I must say that Sanjoy, Sheuli and Ila all lead by example and every single person who worked at the festival (too many to name but Avani who helped me out at Durbar Hall and is such a friend now, must be singled out) made it super special. The atmosphere was electric. Inspiring. Challenging and truly fascinating. It was an absolute honour.
I really have to go to bed now. I can't wait to see another sunrise.
Lxxxx
1 comment:
It seems that (like me) you were a kid in a candy store who couldn't decide what to eat and what to leave out. Another thing you forgot to mention were the number of compliments you received for your exceptional conduct and man-management skills :)
keep it up! hope to see you next year at diggi
cheers!
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