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Saturday, 26 January 2013

RAJASTHAN MAGIC IN FULL SWING

The afternoon was beckoning with intoxicating ease, following five fabulous sessions in a row on Day 2 of the Jaipur Lit Fest. Then I made a huge error in judgement. With smug satisfaction, I stated loudly and more than once, that things were running smoothly. Then came the Latin Americans.

Our first session was a stunner. Andrew Solomon, who welcomed me into his home on many occasions in Greenwich Village (NYC) when I was in my 20s and in love with The City, arrived at the Mughal green room and we were reunited after about a decade. He gave me a warm embrace and we were off and running. The brilliant Madhu Trehan probed expertly into, what is clearly an incredible book about parents and families. It's entitled, 'Far From The Tree: Parents, Children & The Search For Identity'. Andrew has explored the relationship between children and their parents the world over, but with a focus on children who are different - deaf, autistic, severely disabled, gay, trans-gender, dwarf and the list goes on - as it seems that most often they are born to "normal" parents. Andrew read passages from his book with such emotion, I witnessed the audience gasp and tear up as their preconceived notions were smashed to smithereens time and time again.

How could this be bettered? Well it couldn't, but it was equalled by Faramez Dabhoiwala's confronting and hilarious session about the first sexual revolution. William Dalrymple introduced him with this usual flair and style. Soon the audience was reeling with disgust, then laughing uncontrollably as Fara described sexual habits and mores pre-eighteenth century. He finished his brilliant presentation, complete with slides of all manner of paintings, cartoons and images to furnish his stories, by introducing (most of) us to the world's first celebrity Kitty Fisher. She managed her image and brand with an iron rod, with the help of England's most famous portrait painter Joshua Reynolds. She fed the press images she had approved and even created a tiny miniature portrait for her fans to keep inside their pocket watches, for when they wanted a private moment with Kitty. The audience lapped it up and asked probing questions. The tent was heaving and the sun shone brightly through the acquamarine blue bunting. At times it felt rather like we were floating, that we were all wrapped up in a cumulus cloud and surrounded by the brightest, blindingly beautiful sky.

Next we had a raucous session on Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond, 007. Andrew Lycett has written the definitive biography of Ian Fleming and Sebastian Faulks joined him on stage, having recently commissioned to write a new Bond book, continuing Fleming's legacy. Or should I say franchise? It's an awful word, but apt and these two men (guided by Zac O'Yeah) delved into Fleming's life and cogitated Bond's different incarnations. Faulks was scathing about the length, over-branding and the warped representation of women in 'Skyfall'. They all agreed that 'Casino Royale' was one of the best in the series. Of course there were a million questions, mostly from young guys asking about gadgets and guns. JLF is so different to most of the film festivals I've attended and worked at, where one commonly has to pry questions out of glum faced attendees. Here there are a plethora of waving hands and they are often determined to be heard.

After lunch, a well attended and policed session on Sharia Law once again filled the Google Mughal tent. Just to give you an idea of scale, we can seat almost 700 people, but the tent is open on all sides around the stage, so I would guess that for some of these sessions we've held well over 1000 people once those standing, squatting and sitting are included.

Four fascinating panellists (Sadakat Kadri, Asghar Ali Engineer, Tom Holland, Mary Harper) were guided by Reza Aslan through tricky terrain. They explained the origins of Sharia, quoted the Koran and challenged an extremely diverse audience on many levels. Incredibly well prepared panellists, great questions and open minds allowed what was potentially an explosive session, to go off without a hitch. It was unnerving being surrounded by security, but I was grateful they were there in case of protests. As you may know, last year there were many security risks and the controversy has continued this year on many levels. But more on that later.

Next an extremely lively panel debated the current economic climates and the futures of India and China. This drew strong reactions and some fascinating stories, as the two fastest growing economies were dissected, revered and attacked (most often by their own people). Peter Hessler, Nandan Nikelani and Gucharan Daz were guided in conversation by an intense Yank, Daniel Kurtz-Phelan. Yet another session where the collective intellect and level of discussion was top notch.

Then came the Latin Americans. Ariel Dorfman is an unstoppable force and although he had only met Santiago Roncagliolo an hour before their panel (guided by Chandrahas Choudhury), they bantered like old contemporaries despite being from different generations and countries. They were utterly fascinating and raucous. I made the mistake of allowing one question too many and the session ran way over, as Ariel recounted the divisive history of Latin America at the very end. He was so brilliant, it was impossible to staunch his flow, but after peppering the discussion with direct quotes from Umberto Eco, Garcia Marquez, Pablo Neruda and so many more authors, he had the audience in the palm of his hand. It sounds cliched, but the passion of this session and the sense of fun but also the gravity of what was discussed, was dynamite.

By the time I finally ushered them off the stage, Ariel late for his press conference and the temperature dropping by the second, I raced to brief the final panel of authors who were waiting for me. I was mid flow, when an angry gentleman felt the need to come and remonstrate me for not allowing him to ask a question. It was very tricky as he was apoplectic. I wanted so much to be terse, as it's simply not possible to get to everyone and often the authors give long answers (or the questioners make a long statement or ask more than one question) but I was surrounded by writers for our next panel. Plus my team (I must now introduce Kriti, Kanika, Era, Ruchi and Shivani - all brilliant girls who I couldn't have survived without) had raced off to prepare the stage and the tech for out next session, which was by now a quarter of an hour late. It doesn't sound a lot, but it is when you're at the end of a very long day and the eminent Diana Eck wants to just get on stage and forgo all formalities, despite the fact that you're under strict instructions to show a sponsor reel and follow a script of introductions.

Luckily, the final group were awesomely erudite and once again, we packed out the tent as David Shulman joined Diana, guided by the divine Devdutt Pattanaik and introduced by Kota Neelina to discuss the sacred geography of India. At the end of the session, I wanted to immediately start a pilgrimage to the Kumbh Mela (a gathering of 60 million people that is taking place in India right now and only happens every 12 years). Do a quick online search of Kumbh Mela and look at the photos - apparently this particular cycle is particularly special and rare. Some friends of mine are off there post the fest to photograph and interview the sadhus who roam naked, covered in ash and drink blood from a human skull.

Once again, I joined Sirish who runs the Front Lawns and is married to a Canadian called Laura (who I keep getting mistaken for), and some other vagabonds for a journey in the Disco Bus to Clarks for some more music. As I'm short on time, I can't do justice to Chugge Khan's voice and his group of Rajasthani musicians, who took the crowd on the most heavenly musical journey. There was rapturous dancing, waving, laughing, applause and joy as about 12 musicians played magical instruments and sang their hearts out in harmony.

The crowd truly went wild when two goddesses glided onto the stage with burning pots on their heads and twirled around with bracelets jangling and bejewelled outfits flowing in the wind. It was truly gob-smacking and I enjoyed it with a friendly Scottish poet, novellist and environmentallist John Burnside. We just happened to meet at dinner. He lives near Elie in Fife and close to Pittenwheem, outside St. Andrews where Mum's godmother had a home. It's the most beautiful part of the world and he is returning there today to drifts of snow that have forced his family to rent a house on lower ground.

With a heavy heart, I left the music behind as it was reaching fever pitch. I simply couldn't face the shit-fight to find a lift home. Instead I wafted off into the night and straight into a waiting car, so I could gather my strength for three more jam packed days.

Deep breaths.
Lx

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