After the girls on Christmas day told me that Varkala was not to be missed, I jumped on a very early and seriously bumpy ride from Kottayam. Thank you ladies. You were so right.
It's hot, hot, hot here and sea is warm, warm warm. I'm truly in coconut beach heaven. And I've bumped into various faces from elsewhere in Kerala. After checking in to the only room I could find over the phone on the North Cliff near the main beach of Varkala, I decided to treat myself to yet another Ayurvedic massage, this time I thought I'd go for my third oil on the head massage and I can't remember how to spell it - something like Sira Dhara. I just tried to ask the guys at the Joshi's internet cafe and they thought I wanted another one. But i think I've had my fill.
The two Ayurvedic ladies kept spilling the oil into my eyes and giggling, it happened at least 3 times. It's so odd being oiled up like a sardine. It was so hot too. Oh well. At least my skin feels like a baby's bum!!
And the sea. Ahhhhh. I had my first swim since I got to India yesterday. I don't think much could beat the feeling of immersing myself in the ocean yesterday. Today I've hardly been out of it. Though I did do a big wander along the cliff looking for cheaper accommodation this morning after my first yoga class. I think I've found the perfect place to do exactly what Jez said to me on the phone the other day, I can relax here and let my guard down. It's filled with chilled out travellers and beach folk, fishermen, palm thatched huts, an abundance of every sort of fish and food you can imagine, plus a load of shops selling the most delectable delights.
I am so glad I ran into Barbara and Horst again today. They were in the little Tibetan restaurant in the clouds (bless you Sanjiv) place where I ate everthing I consumed yesterday. They told me that they'd found a place further along for 250 rupees. I'm paying 1000 so after the blaring music and the loud generator that were my soundtrack last night, I set off this morn determined to find better. Plus, Sean the Melbourne artist told me that he's found a room for 500. We shared a lovely dinner last night before Matt from Newcastle, who I met on the ferry from Cochin to Eranakulum, waltzed in with some mates.
After hiking all along the cliff top this fine sunny morn, I could find absolutely nowhere with a free room - this place is bloody popular for new years and it's getting close. So, I sat down at a makeshift shop where the sweet Sahim ran off to find me a chilled mango juice. Then Horst just appeared out of nowhere and orders a coke, he says they're leaving tomorrow and do I want their room? Bliss.
So we swam some more and then they took me back to check out the place. Rene and his guests were all eating at an outdoor table and welcomed me to it. We ate delicious, simple fare and I met the local cast of characters (more on them soon). It's basic there but set back from the beach and away from the restaurants and bars and I think perfect for me. So, I'm moving in tomoz and can't wait.
Now it's time to set off to the Juice Shack where a British girl called Kat is waiting to take me to her place and give me a Bengali Massage. My new friends who run the Tibetan place have recommended her and I need to banish the memory of the giggling oilscapade yesterday.
More when I can tear myself away from the sandy shores of Coconut Grove.
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