This diversion to Mysore is working out a treat. Blue and Chip are great guys and I've fallen for Blue's Jack Russell bitser, called Cara. She's only 7 months old but extremely smart and chatty and full of love. He rescued her off the street after losing his most beloved bulldog, after complications from a minor op. It's a story I keep hearing, that dogs just get sick and seem to die young and without a proper explanation as to why. There are so many variables of diseases and disasters. As Blue reminds me, "It's a third world country mate."
We had such a relaxing day after we arrived, except for the bus station malarkey where yet again I was thwarted whilst trying to buy a ticket for Cochin. It seems the whole of India is going there, so after 4 straight days of trying to book one lousy ticket, I called Sampat in Bangalore and asked him if he could possibly pick me up the Bangalore ticket I had on hold just in case. We're meeting up tomorrow arvo for a meal and ticket exchange. I wish I had a traveller's angel medal to give him too!
We were all pretty zonked last night after Surupa's party and getting up so early to travel back, so Blue puts on this Aussie series that he'd been telling me about. What an hilarious experience watching Underbelly in Mysore. We watched the pilot and I thought it was brilliant. The guys have just gone off to get food for dinner and we're going to watch another ep or two tonight. What a trip!! I told them about the legendary film Kenny and they'd never heard of it. I just happen to have brought it with me as I've become such a fan, (yes Mum, Hame, Dad you were all right, he's a bloody champion), so I'm going to give it to them as my leaving gift.
Temple time finally arrived today. I never thought I'd find anywhere to rival the Lost City of Angkor for more temples in one day, but today comes close as we visited a whole village just full of them. It's called Srirangapatna and was an amazing experience, but as usual I'm skipping ahead. So, not to be too forward about going backwards, I must say my very first experience of the day wasn't the best. We went on a lovely early morning drive to the idyllic Chamundi hills where although the temple was lovely and the bull statue very cool, I felt harassed, out of place, taken for a ride, ridiculed and left with my forehead covered in a variety of colours.
As I finally clambered into the car after a bunch of schoolgirls laughed heartily at me and then took photos as though I was an alien, (my motto to just smile wearing thin already), I almost wanted to can the whole day and head home. Thankfully my driver spoke no English except "Coming" and "Very nice" so that wouldn't have been possible anyway. The whole day was organised by Chip and Blue's Dad who is one of the finest Indian gentleman I've met. He adores temples and has given me piles of books to research Tamil Nadu and he set up the whole day, so I couldn't disappoint him.
When we reached Somanathpur, Mr Mariyappa (my trusty driver) instructed me to leave my flip flops/thongs/chappels (sp?) in the car and this time he accompanied me to one of the most intricate and gorgeous temples I've ever, ever seen. It reminded me a bit of Angkor as it was a series of stone carvings set on a plinth and surrounded by tombs. It was breathtaking and not nearly as hectic. Plus, when a bunch of schoolchildren started laughing and taking my picture, I stuck out my hand and introduced myself and asked to take their picture. They all giggled and formed a queue to shake my hand. Then they all gathered around me and I got a great snap.
So back to Srirangapatha, which was truly magical. I happened to stumble into Lakshmi's main temple here (which I think is called the Sriranganatha Temple) when a pooja was in process. I bought my requisite offering of 3 gorgeous pink roses and a 5 rupees ticket to heaven and shuffled in to a tight queue of people. A holy man started approached between the throng, chanting as people spoke to him and I panicked a bit. Was I supposed to take part, what was I meant to say? Luckily behind me a lovely girl calle Deepha told me that I had to give him my star sign and name (plus the rose) and he'd make a prayer for me. When he got to me I gave the info all wrong and the holy man broke his chant, looked a bit miffed then broke into a huge smile and asked my new friend for help. It was amazing hearing him chant Laura and Capricorn and wish me well.
A series of pushings and shoving and prayers and more colours on the forehead ensued and I ended up outside the temple arguing with the shoe wallah about one rupee. Not very holy of me but there is a tendency to double the price for everything for foreigners here. With my flippies back, I wandered down to the water front to watch everyone bathing and splashing and having a lovely time. I was staring wistfully out across the lovely river, when I noticed my new friend and her gang sitting in a boat like contraption taking photos. I offered to take one of them all and then they asked me to join them on a river cruise that went about 1/2 a mile an hour, took us out to a Ganesh shrine in the middle of the river and then dumped us out on a rock while the young guy (couldn't have been more than 10) negotiated the tiny rapids and we got back on for the final 2 foot stretch. All the while we took snaps (to come I promise) and chatted and laughed and I felt like the luckiest person alive.
They told me the name of the "boat" and I think it was called a theppa, but it reminded me of the coracle (sp?) at Uncle Ant's place in Scotland. The coracle if a Welsh floating device that feels like you're stirring a pudding when you steer it and is one of the most ancient vehicles I'd ever been in, until today. Tor, I didn't fall out either. When I tried to pay, Deepha had already done so and insisted it was their treat. Just when you think your enthusiasm and patience is wearing thin, you get blessed and treated to a river cruise. This country is truly astounding.
So, I'm back to Bangalore tomorrow and might finally, actually make it to Kerala after all.
I will write again soon.
Megaluv, Lxxx
1 comment:
Tricia, have just been to Laura’s blog – wow! I have read and re-read it. Simply incredible. She is an amazing girl – although I’ve always known that. Loved the bit about making the ‘sleeping bag’ – sounded so like you! The Violence of the Colours – so what I think about Laura. I have been uplifted and transported to that extraordinary country. Thank you for mentioning it.
This is from Pruey
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