DARK SIDE OF PARADISE

I kind of glossed over the new year madness of Varkala, but since finding out that 12 women were attacked that night, I think I need to expand a bit. Also, a foreign girl was badly attacked just before I left, a guy grabbed her walking along the cliff alone and late at night. He bit a chunk of her cheek off and tried to rape her, luckily she escaped, but the police told her it was not worth registering a complaint!!!! Fuck that. For a joke.

It's easy to forget that you're in India, especially for foreigners who just fly straight into the warm arms of Varkala, which is tourist heaven. New Years Eve was disgusting, well isn't it in most countries, but there were SO many drunk Indian men at least 2 or 3 deep lined up on the cliff when Kate and I were bumbling about. As the night wore on they got more and more brazen and were trying to shake your hand, grab you, just get their hands on you. Nasty.

We did have fun on the beach watching the fireworks, which were amazing but pretty dangerous at times. They were going in every direction you can imagine. I just wish I'd been able to find Cat's house again as she had a rocking house party, but I kept getting lost and Kate lost her rag and insisted we head back to The Grove.

Cat is an English girl who gives the incredible Bengali massages. She has lived 3 seasons in Varkala and has a magical touch. I told anyone who'd listen about her. She missed my birthday and I missed NYE at hers, but she managed to join us at The Grove for my last night in town. Mote and the others cooked up yet another INCREDIBLE meal for Shabbat (Jewish Sabbath).

We had the most gorgeous evening and after all the talk of attacks, we walked her home. I did my typical power walking up the hill and suddenly Cat says "What are we doing, this is India, why are we walking so fast?!". I know it's good for me to be constantly told to slow down, but it's just in my nature sometimes to race along. Shanti, shanti.

How can I sum up my final few days in Coconut Grove - blissful swims, sunshine, chats, drinks, meals, walks, shopping, music and general gorgeousness.

It was hard to leave, but Tomer decided to join me for the full moon weekend at the southernmost tip of India. We caught a train to Kanyakumari after a lazy day of packing and swimming and goodbyes.

Kanyakumari is an incredible place. It's where the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian and Arabian oceans. In April you can see the sun set and rise in the same sky! It was badly affected by the tsunami but has bounced back, though it's not a beautiful town I really enjoyed a short visit.

It was teeming with people for full moon and we arrived just as the sun was setting. The hotel gave us 3 choices of rooms, but when we went to the corner room on the top floor and saw the view, there was no competition. The sun was setting right out of one set of windows and two small rock islands housing the Vivekananda Memorial and a 40ft statue of the Tamil saint Thiruvalluvar greeted us. It was an awesome sight.

The atmosphere on the street was so, so different - real India again. The gangs of Ayappa cult members in their black pilgrim outfits were slightly menacing but we found some great food and just drank in the atmosphere. Sunrise on the day of the full moon was my favourite. It was breathtaking. The ferry ride around the islands was fun but it was so hot we didn't last long. I found some great little stores though and bought many crazy little trinkets. Heaven.

To get my flight from Cochin we had to get the very, very early train. I made it to the airport with good time and it was mega bijoux with 2 gates and comfy chairs. I felt pretty dodgy after eating idli on the train and generally over indulging, but now that I'm back in Bombay I feel a million bucks.

Sriraj, Cam and Emma's driver, was there to greet me and the three of us had a great meal at the house before crashing early.

Ems and I have just had a great day zooming about the city. I treated myself to a body scrub to get all the sunscreen and sand off and am now packing for Delhi. I leave first thing tomorrow and can't wait to explore the north. Just under a month to go!!!

I've had my Kerala photos developed (haven't developed photos in an age exciting!!) so I'm going to try and upload them now.

Emma has just walked in and has bought herself a crazy little red beanie. She and Cam are so excited to be going skiing in France in Feb. She has just presented me with a bottle of Moet & Chandon champers from my gorgeous little bro for Xmas/Bday etc. Thank you Hame. I also came back to a package from Mum and Mellie.

I'm being spoilt rotten. And I LOVE it!
More soon.
Lxxx